Langstroths made simple, with free plans on 8 frame and 10 frames.

Begin your beekeeping dreams with your very own Langstroth beehive. How to build a beehive, that’s easy to make (no box joints or complicated cuts) and has a minimum start-up cost. This video will show you techniques to make your own boxes complete with proper sizes. Also covered in the video are detailed examples of building techniques that are easy to learn so you can focus on tending to bees rather than making the beehive. The FREE plans are saved throughout the article along with a write up on how to.
This beehive is designed around the standard Langstroth 8 frame. In the links I also provide plans for a 10 frame beehive, as well as lids and plywood sheet cut lists.

If you wish to review or re-watch the videos here are the links to YouTube where I cut and build them.

Latest video and using the same techniques 5 frame Nuc, to do splits, shaking packages or mating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhpDs_BdEWM

FOR THE VISUAL, I HAVE VIDEOS:

Here are the two links to videos where I build the beehives.

 

If you missed it the first time, here’s a link to the bottoms and lids of your beehive.

I plan on doing CADs in metric, I’ll post a link once their finished here. In the meantime, I did some quick converting.
3/8″ = 9.5mm
5/8″ = 16mm
3/4″ = 19mm
7/8″ = 22mm
1-1/2″ = 38mm
9-5/8 = 244mm
6-5/8 = 168mm
19-7/8″ = 505mm
12-1/2″ = 317mm
14″ = 355mm

4′ x 8′ = 1219mm x 2438mm
1″x6″ = 25mm x 152mm

BREAKING DOWN THE SHEET GOODS.

I use 3/4 plywood, exterior grade. Approx. cost is $36.00 (2017) this will give me about 5 – 6 deeps and 1 medium with the final cut. What I do is build them 15 boxes at a time. 3 sheets are cut to 9-5/8’s. 2 are turned into lengths of 19-7/8 and 1 is cut to 12-1/2″. This gives me 15 deeps and 3 mediums. The picture below is if you intend on using only one sheet because you're making a single beehive.

I begin by breaking them down on a table saw or with a rip fence on a circular saw. Once the sheets are broken down into 9-5/8s x 8′ long I switch to my miter saw (or cross cut jig) and break them down into lengths of 19-7/8 and 12-1/2″ (12-1/2 will give extra room at the sides but increases the chances the bees will build burr comb during the flow. I use 12-1/2 to help the water and frost escape inside the beehive during a 5 month winter at -30C. If you don’t need to worry about a long winter I recommend using the common 12-1/4″).

Before you change your table saw to a dado blade I recommend sawing 1×6-10 lumber into 2 lengths of 1-1/2″ x 10′ lengths. Save the undersized strip to be cut into a 3/4 x 3/4 x 10′ length to be used for the bottoms and entrance reducers.

The frame rests inside the 12-1/2 can be cut in a number of ways, a circular saw with dado jig. hand saw with careful sawing or a table saw using either a dado blade or multiple cuts. The size is 5/8 deep and 3/8 wide.

Deeps:

Mediums:

ASSEMBLING THE BOXES.

Once the fronts and sizes are cut you can begin assembling. I set up a square on the corner of my workbench using 3/4 plywood strips. The raised 90 degree corner acts like a jig and allows me to use it like a square to butt joint the corners. The 12-1/2 front and back is placed between the two 19-7/8 sides. Use exterior waterproof wood glue on the joints and connect using 2″ – 3″ screws, staples or nails. I use staples and at the top and bottom, I “X” nail the corners to provide strength and resist separation. For added strength, you can “X” nail the entire side.

With the boxes assembled I cut the 1-1/2″ pieces into 14″ lengths, 2 per box, and 2 per lid you plan on making.

Use a combination square or measuring tape to measure 1-1/2″ from the top of the box and use this line to line up the top of the cleat. If you plan on using 2″ lids then mark a line at 2″. Glue and nail the cleats to the 14″ side angling the nail, staple or screw upwards to the top. A nail angled down may pull out and result in dropping the whole box while carrying 80 lbs of honey and frames. I also use this width to help tie the two 19-7/8 pieces to one another.

TIME TO BUILD YOUR LIDS, BOTTOM BOARDS AND HANDLES.

For the bottoms and tops I use 5/8 plywood cut into 14″ x 8′ lengths. (I’ve found 1/2 to be too unstable and tend to warp for the tops, unless their built with telescoping lids). The lengths are then cut to 14″ x 21-5/8″ and used for both the lids and bottoms.

NOTE: If the 10 frame boxes are being used, you will need to cut the tops and bottoms to a width of 16 1/2″

For the tops, glue and nail the two pieces of 1×6 (1-1/2 x 14″) to the sides. This will give your lid 1/8″ wiggle room. I found placing two 2×4 scraps under the plywood and nailing down onto the lid makes the construction easier.

For the bottom board, I cut the 3/4″ x 3/4″ length into (2) 19-7/8″ (1) 12-1/2″ and (1) 12-7/16″ (Cut these last or you may mix them up with your 12-1/2″

Glue and nail the pieces in place as shown in the drawings and video.

10 FRAME BROOD BOXES AND MEDIUMS.

For those of you who wish to use the 10 fame beehive, here are the plans for the boxes.

Deep 10 Frame:

Medium 10 Frame:

I have designed these plans to provide the greatest number of boxes in the least amount of time for the least amount of cost. They will suffice until you have grown large enough to buy manufactured boxes or improved your woodworking skills to the level of box joints and pine woodenware. Using exterior grade plywood with exterior latex paint or latex deck stain the boxes will last you for at least five years. If you're in a dry climate then they will last even longer, plenty of time to improve your woodworking skill, financial situation or perhaps find a great deal on used woodenware.

If you liked this build or know someone who wants to try beekeeping but doesn’t know where to begin, share the video or comment below. Good luck everyone with your beekeeping.

Happy Beekeeping and remember to have fun, its a great little hobby.

Jason Kish.